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Great series, by the way. If it's unfamiliar to you, you should read it.
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Thanks.
Moderator: Eric C
I'm kinda on the fence on that one. I don't want to throw a perfectly good weapon, but if it was paramount to stab that one guy that's just 3 feet too far away, you know ...kaelln wrote:Belbarad: Cool video! I once read a book, though, that suggested that throwing knives in combat was tantamount to throwing away your weapon and giving it to your opponent. Oh yeah, that was in Eldest, by Christopher Paolini, the second book in the Eregon series. Still, it's an impressive skill, and worth experimenting with at the very least!
This, I highly agree with. I've always thought of it as a broken-back seax anyways.Greg wrote:Comparing the way Flanagan describes his knives to practicality, the weapons WOULD work well together, to a certain degree, but a few allowances should be made.
For starters, the Seax he describes would work best (if intended to block the strike of the much heavier sword) if it were a Broken-back seax.
Again, I agree. I was thinking he meant a larger knife anyways, and with the Thorn style of throwing I posted above, this would work perfectly.Greg wrote:The throwing knife he describes is a fairly run-of-the-mill standard, having a leaf blade with a substantial tip to drive the point home. That being said, the throwing knife would need to be a good deal larger than what many would typically imagine; it'd need to be nearly 7-8" long, if not more, to be able to adequately provide the defensive posture he describes. Crossing the blades to block is perfectly fine, but a short throwing knife would make blocking rather hazardous, since the surface being used to block would be limited by its length.
This is about the only issue I had with it. With a sword, you are still reaching around your body with your main hand, which is where I assumed the scabbard to be (left hip if you're right handed, vice-versa). So, say I'm right handed, and the double scabbard is on my left hip, it makes it easier to draw the seax knife. The other knife wouldn't be and issue either, as my left hand is already on the hilt of it anyways. Plus, it sits lower, making it easier to draw. Imagine drawing the seax from your left hip with your right hand. Now turn your left hand until the thumb is facing downward. Reach about 4 inches below your belt, and pantomime drawing a knife with an 8 inch blade and spinning your hand back the way it should face. That seems easier to me.Greg wrote:I've never liked the idea of the double knife scabbard, due to the fact that drawing both of them to use Falanagan's aptly named "Double-knife-defense" would require either reaching all the way around one's body with his offhand, or drawing them both in one hand and passing off the throwing knife to the offhand, both of which are slow and rather cumbersome. I'd rather have them separate on my person, much as I have my dagger and how I have planned my utility/backup knife. The dagger is on my belt in the front, where both hands have easy access to it in a variety of grips, while the other, the utility knife, is going to be mounted on my scabbard. It makes drawing them both faster and easier.
I loved the series. I'm starting to collect them all in paperback, and I wish the last two would come out in America already. I'm not knocking your opinion, btw, just giving my two cents to the ideas you had about it.Greg wrote:I, personally, am a fan of the series, and honestly can't believe how long it's taken for a topic like this to come up. I like the series, but the double-knife dealie-o isn't my cup of tea. I hope somebody can get a practical design going and get their hands on a pair, if only so we can see how well they do together! Good luck to you all! If anybody gets a pair and wants a knife scabbard made, I'd be glad to help.